Good Food
The great tasting menu debate, cast-iron skillets, grapeless wine
Esquire’s Jeff Gordinier weighs in on the pros and cons of tasting menus. Alec Lee of Ava Winery explains the science behind producing wine without a single grape. Food and travel writer Shane Mitchell shares stories from her new book, “Far Afield.” Plus: Jonathan Gold recommends Filipino dishes to try at Irenia, and Charlotte Druckman serves up a cast-iron skillet pistachio-cherry Danish recipe.
By Evan Kleiman • • 56m ListenPhoto by Aubrie Pick
In this episode
5 storiesTasting menus are bullsh*t (except when they're not)
When does eating become punishment? As more chefs move to lengthy fixed menus with bills that might very well cost your monthly rent, the decision to dine at restaurants with tasting menus has become a difficult one.
Read the story10 min'Stir, Sizzle, Bake'
Now, onto one of our favorite tools in the kitchen: the trusty cast-iron skillet. Cook and food writer Charlotte Druckman waxes poetic about these incredibly versatile and practically indestructible pans in her new cookbook, “ Stir, Bake, Sizzle .” Try your hand at her pistachio-cherry Danish recipe on the Good Food blog .
Read the story12 minJonathan Gold dines at Irenia
This week, our favorite food critic, Jonathan Gold , experiences an existential moment while munching on toasted anchovies and salted peanuts at Irenia in Santa Ana.
Read the story8 minGrapeless wine
The terroir at Ava Winery boasts neither nutrient-rich soil nor a mesoclimate, but rather test tubes and Bunsen burners. That’s because the synthetic wines are produced in their San Francisco lab without a single grape. It’s enough to make Bacchus’ (and Evan’s) heads roll. Co-founder Alec Lee explains the science behind their grapeless wines.
Read the story13 min'Far Afield'
For a full decade, Shane Mitchell travelled around the world with photographer James Fisher to gather stories for “ Far Afield: Rare Food Encounters from Around the World .” Mitchell joins us to discuss the people she encountered and the foods she tasted for the book.
Read the story12 min
