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    Back to Press Play with Madeleine Brand

    Press Play with Madeleine Brand

    Bar Ama, Petty Cash, El Compadre: Where to find LA’s favorite guacamole spots

    When planning this week’s show, I knew I had to focus on guacamole. And if we were going to cover the famed avocado dish, I was about curious people’s favorites. Why? Because I had a feeling guacamole would be personal for people.

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    By Madeleine Brand • Jun 24, 2021 • 9m Listen

    When planning this week’s show, I knew I had to focus on guacamole. And if we were going to cover the famed avocado dish, I was about curious people’s favorites. Why? Because I had a feeling guacamole would be personal for people.

    I took to Instagram and asked “What restaurant makes your favorite guacamole.” I imagined people choosing a place to eat just for the guacamole but in fact I had it turned around. People mostly love the guacamole at their favorite Mexican restaurants — places they have been going to for ages. And of course, there is great affection for table side preparations. It’s a way of dining long gone for now.

    Guacamole is a comfort food attached to the first half hour of sitting down, while ordering a drink and starting to relax. I then posted a poll, asking what kind of guacamole folks prefer:chunky or smooth? I have never had so many respondents to a poll. Nearly 300 people responded. Only nine said they preferred smooth guacamole. Thus, the people had spoken. They also talked about the chips: the fresh, slices of crispy tortilla triangles that are integral to the guacamole experience.

    But first, the avocados

    The most important ingredient is the avocado itself. Too ripe and that lingering rancidity of the fat in the avocado will ruin your guacamole. Too hard and it’s simultaneously watery and rocky, not smooth. Many varieties of avocados exist, but the most common California varieties here in Los Angeles is the Hass, with its dark pebbly skin and the pear shaped smooth Fuerte.

    But if you can find an avocado farmer like Laura Ramirez of JJ’s Lone Daughter Ranch, your world of the fat fleshed beauties opens up to many more varieties. That includes the epic Sir Prize, which can weigh in at over two pounds and whose flesh doesn’t oxidize. It’s the avocado you want on a desert island.

    What is Guacamole?

    What is guacamole? In its simplest form, the green mash is a coarse puree of perfectly ripe avocado flesh with just enough salt to reveal its flavor and just enough lime juice to add acid to the bland creamy flesh and stave off immediate oxidation. That’s my favorite guacamole. It’s simple and avocado is the star. I think of my way as a base into which people start to personalize by adding any combination of minced tomatoes, onion, chiles, and cilantro. The tomatoes can be any color or variety. Sometimes the seeds are removed, but more often not. The onion can be white, red or yellow and sometimes even green, as in green onions. The chiles are most often jalapeños or serranos but sometimes habaneros. As with tomatoes they are added with or without seeds. Some people just add enough additional ingredients to make the simple a bit more interesting, others almost turn it into a salad.

    As I poked around the internet to see if I was missing something, I came upon a recipe that stands alone in the uniqueness of it’s technique. It’s Roberto Santibañez’ Classic Guacamole. He starts by mashing together onion, serranos, salt and cilantro. He does it in a molcajete but you can also “mince and mash the ingredients together on a cutting board with a large knife or a fork”. This supercharges the aromatic and heat filled condiments which then bathe the avocado before adding any other ingredients.

    Listeners Favorite Restaurant Guacamoles

    I asked about fan-favorite guacamoles from restaurants around LA. Here’s what you shared.

    Alta Baja

    Alta BajaSanta Ana

    Bar Ama

    Bar AmaDTLA

    El Compadre

    El CompadreSilverlake

    El Coyote

    El CoyoteBeverly Grove

    El Mirador

    El Mirador Palm Springs

    El Torito

    El ToritoMultiple Locations

    Mercado

    MercadoMultiple Locations

    Petty Cash

    Petty CashBeverly Grove

    Rocios Mexican Kitchen

    Rocios Mexican KitchenBell

    Salazar

    Frogtown (between Silverlake and Glendale)

    Socalo

    SocaloSanta Monica

    Tallula’s

    Tallula’sSanta Monica

    Tocayo

    TocayoMultiple Locations

    The full episode

    5 of 5
    New documentary ‘A Sexplanation’ explores stigma around sex
    1. 0:00Britney Spears’ conservatorship case pushes CA lawmakers to revamp state laws
    2. 6:25Canada uncovers indigenous mass burial sites, prompts U.S. search for sites
    3. 14:58SoCal is known for its wellness culture. Turns out it’s also a hotbed for Q-Anon
    4. 26:20New documentary ‘A Sexplanation’ focuses on reducing the stigma of sex education
    5. 41:50Bar Ama, Petty Cash, El Compadre: Where to find LA’s favorite guacamole spotsYou’re reading this
    • https://images.ctfassets.net/2658fe8gbo8o/AvYox6VuEgcxpd20Xo9d3/769bca4fbf97bf022190f4813812c1e2/new-default.jpg?h=250

      Madeleine Brand

      Host, 'Press Play'

    • KCRW placeholder

      Sarah Sweeney

      Vice President of Talk Programming, KCRW

    • KCRW placeholder

      Angie Perrin

      Producer, Press Play

    • KCRW placeholder

      Michell Eloy

      Former Producer/Line Editor, Press Play

    • https://images.ctfassets.net/2658fe8gbo8o/AvYox6VuEgcxpd20Xo9d3/769bca4fbf97bf022190f4813812c1e2/new-default.jpg?h=250

      Evan Kleiman

      host 'Good Food'

      CultureFood & DrinkLos AngelesCalifornia

    The full episode

    5 of 5
    New documentary ‘A Sexplanation’ explores stigma around sex
    1. 0:00Britney Spears’ conservatorship case pushes CA lawmakers to revamp state laws
    2. 6:25Canada uncovers indigenous mass burial sites, prompts U.S. search for sites
    3. 14:58SoCal is known for its wellness culture. Turns out it’s also a hotbed for Q-Anon
    4. 26:20New documentary ‘A Sexplanation’ focuses on reducing the stigma of sex education
    5. 41:50Bar Ama, Petty Cash, El Compadre: Where to find LA’s favorite guacamole spotsYou’re reading this
    Back to Press Play with Madeleine Brand