All photos by Kristin Perers.
During Ramadan, practicing Muslims will fast, or sawm, from dawn until dusk. The fast is seen as a way to spiritually purify one’s self and to become closer to God by recognizing the suffering faced by those less fortunate.
Evan Kleiman’s favorite part of Helou’s book? The first chapter is all about the bread. In many cookbooks, Kleiman notes, the section on bread will come at the back of the text because it is considered supplemental to the meals. According to Helou, “bread is essential” to the Islamic culinary tradition.
Besides the remarkable outline of the various types of bread common in the Islamic world, Helou offers a handful of recipes to share with family and friends. Her favorite recipe? Saudi roast lamb shoulder on a bed of fragrant rice.
Try her recipe at home.
Ingredients 1 lamb shoulder on the bone (about 4 1/2 pounds) For the garnish 1/4 cup blanched almonds, toasted in a hot oven for 7 minutes Prepare the lamb: Trim the lamb of all excess fat. Place in a large roasting pan. Combine ingredients for marinade: Mix the yogurt and minced garlic in a large bowl. Add half the saffron and salt to taste and mix well. Let the yogurt sit for 15 to 30 minutes, stirring it every now and then until it has turned a lovely yellow color from the saffron. Dress the lamb: Pour the yogurt over the lamb shoulder and coat it well. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for a couple of hours. Preheat the oven: Thirty minutes before the shoulder is ready, preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Roast the lamb: Add 2 cups (500 ml) water to the roasting pan. Mix well with the yogurt and loosely cover the lamb shoulder with foil. Roast until done to your liking—if you like your meat pink, calculate 20 minutes per pound, and if you prefer it well done, calculate 30 minutes per pound or a little longer. Prepare fragrant rice: About 20 minutes before the meat is ready, drain the rice and put it in a saucepan. Take the meat out of the oven and uncover. Drain the juices and add to the rice together with the spices, lemon juice, and salt to taste. You may need to add a little water (up to 1 cup). Return the meat to the oven, leaving it uncovered so that it browns. Cook fragrant rice: Bring the rice to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the rice is tender and has absorbed all the liquid. Check on the level of liquid and if the rice looks too dry, add a little more if needed. When done, take the rice off the heat. Uncover and sprinkle the top of the rice with the rose water. Then wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and place back over the rice. Let sit for 5 minutes. Serve: Transfer the rice to a large serving platter, making space in the middle to place the shoulder of lamb. Garnish with the toasted almonds and pine nuts and serve.Saudi roast lamb shoulder on a bed of fragrant rice
1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon Greek yogurt
3 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
2 good pinches of saffron threads
Sea salt
2 1/2 cups basmati rice, soaked for 30 minutes in lightly salted water
1 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground galangal
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5 whole cloves
Juice of 1 lemon
1 1/2 tablespoons rose water
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted in a hot oven for 5 minutes