Before the holidays, DJ Olsen told us about his no-fail technique for creamy sorbet. The key, he explained, is creating an invert sugar. Below he explains how he does it for his Hachiya Persimmon Sorbet. This is a method for making sorbets of all types. Generally, with this particular method, sorbet ratios are as follows: 100% fruit purée to 100% sugar syrup (recipe follows) to 50% filtered water. However, since Hachiya persimmon purée is particularly sweet, we’ve found cutting down the amount of sugar syrup used, upping the fruit purée, and adding some acid (in the form of lemon juice) makes for a more delicious sorbet which also retains its special orange color. As to the three sugars used in the syrup (sucrose in the form of granulated sugar, maltose in the form of corn syrup, and powdered dextrose), they combine with fructose (in the persimmon pulp) to form an invert sugar, which in turn helps prevent crystallization in the sorbet, keeping it creamy as it freezes. It was fortunate this year at the market that Jeff Rieger of Penryn Specialities had frozen hachiya persimmon pulp for sale. But it’s easy to make. Just take very ripe hachiyas, scoop the flesh into a food mill and purée, then proceed with the recipe.
Keep reading for DJ’s recipe…
Chef DJ Olsen
THE BLACK CAT
yield: 2 qt.
24 fluid ounces hachiya persimmon purée
16 fluid ounces sugar syrup (recipe follows)
10 fluid ounces filtered water
1/4tsp kosher salt
juice from one med-sized lemon
1. Blend everything together; chill a minimum 5 hrs before freezing
2. Churn in ice cream maker as per manufacturer’s instruction
3. When churned to soft-serve consistency, place in freezer to set further, minimum four more hours.
We serve three scoops of the sorbet on a rectangular plate, along with fresh pink pomegranate seeds (from Laura at JJ’s Lone Daughter Ranch), a few Whitney Farms blueberries, and a little french butter cookie called a “punition.” It’s a beautiful plate!
Sugar Syrup for Sorbets
6C granulated sugar
3C filtered water
1C light corn syrup
1/4C powdered dextrose
1. Place everything in a sauce pan; heat, stirring occasionally until all sugars have dissolved.
2. Let cool; place in a sanitized container; refrigerate until needed (should be used cold); can be frozen up to three months