To the Point
One Writer's Search for the Perfect Wave
In 1978 a young writer dropped everything and toured the developing world looking for the perfect wave. Journalist William Finnegan tells us what he found along the way. He's the author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life . Big wave surfing in Tahiti at Teahupoo Photo: Duncan Rawlinson
In 1978 a young writer dropped everything and toured the developing world looking for the perfect wave. Journalist William Finnegan tells us what he found along the way. He's the author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life.