Pope Benedict the XVI threaded his way through the Middle East today as he continued his “pilgrimage” in Israel. He met the Palestinians' senior cleric, the Grand Mufti, at the Dome of the Rock, then left a prayer in a niche in the Western Wall, one of Judaism's holiest sites. Rabbis and politicians have criticized his speeches, and the Vatican denied that he'd ever belonged to Hitler Youth — contradicting the Pope himself. Will his visit help reinvigorate the peace process? Will it be a boon for the diminishing number of Christians who still live in the Holy Land?