How to make ‘Caesar’ Brussels sprouts like Josef Centeno

The beauty of Josef Centeno’s food is in the contrast. “The ‘pow!’ in my cooking comes from the layers of flavor, from citrus, herbs, vinegar, and spices. I like contrasts of fat, acid, textures, temperatures, traditions, and techniques,” he writes in his just-published first cookbook, “Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles.” Chef Centeno is the owner of Bäco Mercat,

Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston, Ledlow and P.Y.T. in Downtown LA, and a new Bäcoshop in Culver City.

Flipping through the Bäco book that Centeno wrote with his wife — that would be food writer Betty Hallock — vibrant pictures of dishes scattered with herbs and spices pop from the page. The sensory overload of the book lends itself to the reader’s appetite, in that the food isn’t perfectly organized or convoluted with scary ingredients. Rather, the recipes feature accessible techniques, informative headnotes and the history behind various preparations.

Sometimes ingredients surprise you. Centeno gives us a “Caesar” Brussels sprouts recipe that does just that. “I found a delivery of 30 pounds of Brussels sprouts in the walk-in refrigerator one day. What do you do with 30 pounds of Brussels sprouts? You get creative,” he says. The hardy vegetable mixed with elements of acidity and crunch, and, of course, anchovies, yields a delicious salad that serves four.

Caesar Brussels Sprouts

This recipe makes more dressing than you’ll need for the Brussels sprouts. Store any remaining dressing in a lidded jar in the refrigerator for up to one week. You can also use salted anchovies here, rinsed then soaked in 3 tablespoons of milk for 10 minutes, and drained.

Yield: Makes four servings.

Caesar dressing

Ingredients

5 oil-packed anchovy fillets

1/2 cup grated Pecorino cheese

Juice of 2 lemons

1 garlic clove, peeled

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp sherry vinegar

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of salt

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

Put the anchovies, Pecorino cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, sherry vinegar, black pepper and salt in a blender and purée on medium speed until nearly smooth. With the blender running, drizzle in the olive oil and blend until creamy. Set aside.

Brussels Sprouts

Ingredients

1 lb Brussels sprouts

1 Tbsp butter

1 Tbsp avocado or olive oil

1/4 tsp salt

1 Tbsp sherry vinegar

1/3 cup fresh parsley leaves

1/4 cup mint and rose pickled red onions

4 radishes, cut into thin slices

3 Tbsp grated Pecorino cheese

2 Tbsp caraway bread crumbs

1/2 Tbsp chopped fresh chives

Instructions

Carefully trim and core the Brussels sprouts with a paring knife or the sharp tip of a vegetable peeler. Discard the outermost leaves. Peel the leaves of each sprout, putting them in a large bowl, until you reach the paler center. Then cut the centers into thin slices and put them in the same bowl. Heat the butter and oil over medium-high heat in a large sauté pan. When the butter begins to foam, turn the heat to high, add the Brussels sprouts and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leaves have wilted and their edges begin to char, about 3 minutes. Transfer the Brussels sprouts back to the bowl and toss with 3 tablespoons of the Caesar dressing and the sherry vinegar. Gently stir in the parsley, pickled onions, radishes, Pecorino cheese, bread crumbs, and chives. Transfer to a platter and serve immediately.

Photos by Dylan + Jeni.