In Tulum, who can afford Noma Mexico's $600 dinner?

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Chef René Redzepi of Noma fame brought his latest pop-up experience to Tulum, Mexico. Reservations were coveted at Noma Mexico, where for $600 you could try the Russian caviar with coconut cream, green tomato mezcal, and ant larvae tostadas. But the price tag was out of reach for most Tulum locals, where the average income is in the bottom third of the country. New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells explains why he decided not to review Noma Mexico.