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FROM THIS EPISODE

Madhur Jaffrey remembers growing up in India, Floyd Cardoz spices up American food with Indian flavors. Linda Faillace recounts a tragic tale of sheep, and Jean Luc Naret has the new Michelin guide for San Francisco. Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page tell us what to drink with what we eat and Chris Pollan offers a primer on cheese.

One Good Dish

David Tanis

Producers:
Marina McLeod
Bob Carlson
Jennifer Ferro
Thea Chaloner
Candace Moyer

Guest Interview Michelin Guide San Francisco 6 MIN

Two weeks ago the first edition of the Michelin Guide San Francisco was released. Jean Luc Naret, Director of the Michelin Guide tells us that only one restaurant got the coveted three star rating -- The French Laundry in Napa.

In 1900, André Michelin published the first edition of a guide to France to help drivers maintain their cars, find decent lodging, and eat well while touring. It included addresses of gasoline distributors, garages, tire stockists, public toilets, etc.  There were only 3000 cars in France at this time.

The guide was distributed free until 1920. According to a story told by the Michelin brothers, the charge was introduced after a pile of guides was found propping up a workbench in a garage, showing that a free gift would not be taken seriously. In 1926, the guide introduced the star to note good cooking; two and three stars were added in the early 1930s.

As motoring became more widespread and democratic, the star system was developed and guides to other countries introduced. Today a series of twelve guides lists more than 45,000 hotels and restaurants across Europe, and the guide to France has sold 30 million copies since it was introduced.


Music Break: Fat Man - Pete Moore Orchestra

Guest Interview Cooking with Indian Spices 7 MIN

Floyd Cardoz is the Executive Chef of Tabla, a groundbreaking restaurant serving New Indian cuisine cooked with the sensual flavors and spices of his native land. He has a new book called One Spice, Two Spice: American Food, Indian Flavors.

Chef Floyd Cardoz's Rice Flake Crisped Halibut, Watermelon and Wilted Watercress Curry
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This recipe, as served at Tabla in New York City, serves 4. 
 
For Watermelon and Watercress:

2 1/2 T olive oil
1 t cumin seeds
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine
1 T minced ginger root
1/2 t coriander seeds, freshly ground
1/4 t turmeric
1/4 t aleppo pepper, freshly ground (if you can't find aleppo, use any good, dried red chili powder...but then eliminate the pinch of cayenne pepper)
1 pinch cayenne pepper
1 1/2 C watermelon juice, made in blender
Salt to taste
Juice of two limes
2 C watermelon, seeded and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 bunch watercress, picked of its thick stems and chopped in half
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 
 
For Halibut:
4 pieces halibut
2 egg yolks
2 T flour
4 ounces "beaten rice" flakes (if you can't find them at an Indian grocery, use cornmeal or uncooked Cream of Wheat instead)
Cayenne pepper to taste
2 T corn or canola oil
1 T butter 
 
For Topping:
Zest of one lime, without any white skin
Flesh of one lime, sliced into little segments 
 
For Sauce:
1. Place a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Put in 2 T olive oil and heat. Add the cumin seeds and cook until fragrant (about 1/2 a minute), making sure that the seeds do not burn. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, and cook for 1/2 a minute more, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and add the ground spices to the pot. Stir and cook for a few seconds. Next, add the watermelon juice. Return to high heat and rapidly reduce the watermelon juice until it reaches 1/8 of its original volume. Season with salt and the lime juice. Store until ready to use. Actually, it's preferable to make this curry up to 6 hours in advance, to let the flavors mellow and blend with standing. 
 
2. Just before you're ready to eat, reheat the watermelon curry and keep warm. Heat a large heavy-bottomed saute pan, and add the remaining 1/2 T olive oil. When oil is hot, add the diced watermelon and quickly saute so that the watermelon just warms up. Add the curry sauce and continue to cook rapidly, taking care that the watermelon does not disintegrate. Next, add the watercress and continue to cook until the watercress starts to wilt. Season with salt and black pepper and serve immediately. Note: this step should not take more than five minutes. 
 
For Halibut:
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 
2. Make an egg wash with egg yolk, flour, salt and pepper.
3. Brush one side of the halibut with egg wash.
4. Press the egg-washed side of halibut in rice flakes (or corn meal or Cream of Wheat) to give it a good coating (this can be done up to 2 hours before).
5. Heat a skillet on medium heat and add corn oil. When the oil is hot, saute the fish -- coated side down -- until rice flakes get a light color.
6. Turn fish over and continue to cook.
7. When fish is almost done, turn over once more and add the butter.
8. Finish cooking until just barely done (up to four minutes) in a 400 degree oven. This helps it cook thoroughly and evenly. 
 
TO ASSEMBLE
Ladle the watermelon curry into broad bowls or onto plates. Top with the halibut filets, and then top each piece of halibut with a clump of lime segments and lime zest.

Sweet Spiced Oxtail with Turmeric Mashed Potatoes
Yield: 4 portions
Ingredients:

Oxtail braise:
4 Tbsp. Oil
4 pieces Oxtail
2 ea. Onions, medium dice
2 ea. Carrots, medium dice
4 ea. Celery stalks, medium dice
½ head Garlic cloves, minced
2-inch piece Ginger, minced
½ cup Red wine
¼ cup Red wine vinegar
2 ea. Bay leaves
Water to cover
1 sprig Thyme
1 sprig Rosemary

Spice mix for oxtails:
4 ea. Cloves
1 tsp. Black peppercorn
¾ inch Cinnamon stick
1½ Tbsp. Cumin
1 tsp. Mustard seed
1 ea. Dry chile
2 tsp. Coriander seed
1½ Tbsp. Brown sugar
1/8 tsp. Cayenne

For mashed potatoes:
1 tsp. Corn oil
1 tsp. Chana dal (split yellow peas or split chick peas)
1 ea. Onion, peeled and diced
1 tsp. Coleman’s mustard powder
2 tsp. Honey
¼ tsp. Turmeric
2 Tbsp. Heavy cream
¾ cup Milk
4 ea. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, steamed and rinsed
Salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. Butter

Method for oxtail:
1. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper.
2. Heat a rondeau or other large pot over medium heat. Add the oil and sear the oxtails. Remove from pan.
3. In the same pan, sauté onions, celery, carrots, garlic and ginger until golden. 
4. Grind the spice mix and make a paste using the red wine vinegar and red wine to loosen.
5. Add the spice mix to mirepoix and cook until any liquid is evaporated.
6. Mix in tomato paste and cook for 3-4 minutes.
7. Add the oxtail and cover with stocks.
8. Bring up to a boil, add herbs, cover and place in a 350 degree oven. Cook until fork-tender. 
9. Remove oxtails and pass the stock through a strainer, pressing to pass through vegetables. Store the oxtails in liquid overnight. Remove oxtails and reduce liquid by half over medium-high heat. To serve oxtail, reheat in reduced liquid until warm through.

Method for mashed potatoes:
1. Place a medium stew pot over medium-high heat.
2. Add the corn oil and the chana dal and cook until the chana dal is golden brown in color.
3. Add the chopped onion and the turmeric and cook until the onions are transparent, 4-5 minutes.
4. Add the honey, cream and milk and simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Add the milk mix and butter to the potatoes and mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

Goan Spiced Crab Cakes
Yield: 4 servings

¼ c Corn oil
1  Onion; diced small
1 tb Peeled; minced fresh ginger
½ tb Minced garlic
1 ts Coriander seeds; ground
1 ts Cumin seed; ground
¼ ts Turmeric
1  Tomato; diced small
1 c Crabmeat; carefully picked
2 medium Shrimp; minced to fine paste
2  Limes; zested (chopped), and juiced
8  Sprigs cilantro; washed
1 tb Chopped chives
1  Egg; beaten
1 c Panko -; (available in Japanese specialty Stores)
Salt; to taste
Freshly-ground black pepper; to taste
Cayenne; to taste

In a large saute pan, heat one tablespoon of the corn oil. Add the onion, ginger and garlic and saute for 5 minutes over medium heat. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric and the tomato and continue to cook until it turns dry. Remove from the heat and cool down. In a large mixing bowl, combine crabmeat, the cooled onion mixture, shrimp, chopped lime zest and juice, cilantro, chives, beaten egg and 3 tablespoons of the panko. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Mix well so that all the ingredients are well incorporated. Test a small quantity by forming a teaspoon of this mix into a small patty and frying it in a pan. Adjust the salt and pepper if necessary. Divide this mixture into 4 equal portions. Form into balls and flatten to form small patties. Put the rest of the panko on a cutting board. Place the patties one at a time in the bread crumbs. Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet large enough to hold the crab cakes on medium heat. Add the oil and fry the crab cakes. When the cakes turn a light golden color, flip them over and cook them on the other side until they are light golden in color. Using a slotted spatula, remove and drain on a paper towel. 
 
Music Break: Funkround - The Cavendish Orchestra

Guest Interview Cheese -- Sheep, Cow and Goat 7 MIN

Chris Pollan of The Cheese Store of Silverlake tells us about the cheeses everyone is buying and the ones we should all know about. They just started monthly cheese tastings at the store and are always worth visiting. Chris will be back in a month or so to tell us about some great holiday gift ideas.


What everyone's buying:

Sheeps milk Basque cheeses like: Torque, Estara, Pilota

Aged Goat's milk cheese:  Midnight Moon.  Aged 1 year. Serve with red grapes or chutney or membrillo, the Spanish quince paste 

What we should be buying:

Berkswell Hard Sheeps Milk Cheese, Tastes fruity, sometimes pineappley and nutty. Made by Stephen Fletcher & Linda Dutch at Ram Hall, near Berkswell.

Spenwood: Made by Anne and Andy Wigmore near Riseley, Berkshire. A nutty, sweet cheese with a translucent appearance and a smooth texture.


The Cheesestore of Silverlake, 3926-28 West Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90029, (323) 644-7511


Check out Neal's Yard and Cowgirl Creamery for an index on cheeses.

Music Break: Hula Beauty - Dick Dickinson

Guest Interview What to Drink with What You Eat 7 MIN

Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page are the husband-and-wife author team behind the 1996 James Beard Award-winning book BECOMING A CHEF. They have a new book out called What to Drink with What you Eat: The Definitive Guide to Pairing Food with Wine, Beer, Spirits, Coffee, Tea — Even Water — Based on Expert Advice from America's Best Sommeliers.

Exceptional in its depth and scope — with over 1500 entries — WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT is based on the collective wisdom of experts at dozens of America's best restaurants, including Alinea, Babbo, Bern's, Blue Hill, Chanterelle, Daniel, Emeril's, The French Laundry, Frontera Grill, The Inn at Little Washington, Jean Georges, Masa's, The Modern, Per Se, Rubicon, Tru and Valentino.








Guest Interview Market Report 6 MIN

Laura Avery talks about curing green olives with Scott Peacock.  Here's a recipe for curing your own at home with water.

This method is for the green olives, not the red or purple. Crack each of them with a rolling pin brick or hammer, then immerse them completely in cold water, changing the water every day for at least 25 days. Stir them occasionally. Taste one after 25 days. If they are too bitter, keep up this regime until they are edible.

Raw pistachios are coming this week and next.  The Santa Barbara Pistachio Company is bringing down delicate, raw nuts in their fresh stage which are highly perishable and popular in Middle Eastern dishes.  

Laura also met up with Rebecca Rather of Rather Sweet Bakery in Fredericksburg, Texas. Rebecca shares a wonderful recipe for peach bars with us on air. Look for a written recipe on our website soon.

Music Break: I Feel Fine - Stanley Black & His Orchestra

Guest Interview Madhur Jaffrey 8 MIN

Madhur Jaffrey, one of today’s most highly regarded writers on Indian food gives us an enchanting memoir of her childhood in Delhi in an age and a society that has since disappeared. The book is called Climbing the Mango Trees: A Memoir of Childhood in India.
 
Madhur (meaning “sweet as honey”) Jaffrey grew up in a large family compound where her grandfather often presided over dinners at which forty or more members of his extended family would savor together the wonderfully flavorful dishes that were forever imprinted on Madhur’s palate.
 
Climbing mango trees in the orchard, armed with a mixture of salt, pepper, ground chilies, and roasted cumin; picnicking in the Himalayan foothills on meatballs stuffed with raisins and mint and tucked into freshly fried pooris; sampling the heady flavors in the lunch boxes of Muslim friends; sneaking tastes of exotic street fare—these are the food memories Madhur Jaffrey draws on as a way of telling her story. 

And, at the end, this book contains a secret ingredient more than thirty family recipes recovered from Madhur’s childhood, which she now shares.

You can read an except of the book.

Cookbook Signing, 9 - 11  am This Sunday, October 15th 
Copies of Climbing the Mango Trees and Jaffrey's other cookbooks will be available for sale at the market courtesy of The  Cook's Library.

The Hollywood Farmers' Market is located on Ivar & Selma Avenues between Hollywood & Sunset.  The Market is open every Sunday, rain or shine, from 8 am to 1 pm.  One hour free parking is available at the Cinerama Dome on Sunset with market validation. 


Mango Curry
By Madhur Jaffrey
From Flavours of India
A delicious warming fruity curry - ideal for supper time.

Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time 30 mins to 1 hour

Ingredients
3 medium ripe mangoes, peeled pit removed and flesh cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1-1 1/2 tsp salt
2oz jaggery or brown sugar, if needed
11oz coconut, freshly grated
3-4 fresh hot green chillies, coarsely chopped
1/2  tbsp cumin seeds
1/2 pint natural yoghurt, lightly beaten
2 tbsp coconut oil or any other vegetable oil
1/2 tsp brown mustard seeds
3-4 dried hot red chillies, broken into halves
1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
10-12 fresh curry leaves, if available

Method
1. Put the mangoes in a medium-sized pan. Add 9fl oz water. Cover and stew for 8-10 minutes over a medium-low heat. Stir occasionally. Add the turmeric, cayenne pepper and salt. Stir well. (If the mangoes are not sweet enough, add the jaggery or brown sugar to make the dish sweeter.)

2. Meanwhile, put the coconut, green chillies and cumin seeds in to a blender. Add 250ml/9fl oz water and blend to a fine paste.

3. When the mangoes are cooked, mash them to a pulp. Add the coconut paste. Mix. Cover and simmer over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture becomes thick. This should take about 10-15 minutes. Add the yoghurt and heat, stirring, until just warmed through. Do not let the mixture come to the boil. Remove from the heat and put to one side. Check for seasoning.

4. Heat the oil in a small pan over a medium-high heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds begin to pop (a matter of a few seconds) add the chillies, fenugreek seeds and the curry leaves. Stir and fry for a few seconds until the chillies darken. Quickly add the contents of the small pan to the mangoes. Stir to mix.

Music Break:  Gettysburg - Ratatat

Guest Interview Mad Sheep Disease? 7 MIN

In the mid-1990s Linda Faillace and her family had a dream: they wanted to breed sheep and make cheese on their Vermont farm. They did the research, worked hard, followed the rules, and, after years of preparation and patience, built a successful, entrepreneurial business. But just like that, their dream turned into a nightmare. The U.S. Department of Agriculture told them that the sheep they imported from Europe (with the USDA’s seal of approval) carried a disease similar to the dreaded BSE or “mad cow disease.” After months of surveillance—which included USDA agents spying from nearby mountaintops and comically hiding behind bushes—armed federal agents seized their flock. The animals were destroyed, the Faillace’s lives turned upside down, all so that the USDA could show the U.S. meat industries that they were protecting America from mad cow disease—and by extension, easing fears among an increasingly wary population of meat-eaters.

She's got a book to describe her experiences. It's called Mad Sheep: The True Story of the USDA's War on a Family Farm.


Music Break: Hully Gull - Tommy Kinsman

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