Modern Toilet; Asian Dumplings; Gustavo Arellano; Oyster Love
When is it okay to eat out of the toilet? Only at a restaurant called Modern Toilet in Taiwan. This week on Good Food, a visit to this bathroom themed restaurant. Plus Gustavo Arellano has a restaurant for us to try in the OC and Russ Parsons gets spicy with New Mexico chiles.
Forget cereal and toast for breakfast. How about fried rice or noodle soup? Roxanne Webber of Chow.com has breakfast around the world. Sandra Wu tells us about a toilet-themed restaurant that's causing a stir in Taiwan. Author Rowan Jacobsen is obsessed with the Olympia oyster. The Ask a Mexican columnist, Gustavo Arellano, has a Vietnamese place for us to try. Green chiles are a staple of New Mexican cuisine. The LA Times' Russ Parsons explains. The Beer Chick, Christina Perozzi is here with some of her favorite brews. Yeast is everywhere, from bread to beer to our intestines. Marcelle Pick explains how too much yeast can be a bad thing. Asian dumplings look complicated but they are actually really easy to make, says Andrea Nguyen. She demystifies the dumpling. And Laura Avery hits the Santa Monica Farmers Market to see what's fresh and in season.
Allagash White Ale Allagash Brewing Company - Portland, Maine 5.2% ABV This is Allagash's version of the Belgian wheat beer called Witbier or White Ale. Its fermented with coriander and bitter orange beer and is nuanced and spicy, but light bodied and dry.
Cantillon Lou Pepe - Kriek (cherry) or Frambois (raspberry) Brasserie Cantillon, Belgium 5.00% ABV This is a delicious beer that has both fruitiness as well as a good smack of Lambic tartness.
Chocolate Stout Rogue Ales Brewery, Newport, Oregon 6.00% ABV They use both chocolate malts and real chocolate for a nice balance of bitter and sweet!
Siu Mai Open-Faced Dumplings
Makes 30 dumplings, serving 6 to 8 as a snack
2/3 lb coarsely ground pork, fattier kind preferred, coarsely chopped to loosen 4 large dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted (see page 13), stemmed, and chopped (1/2 cup) Generous 1/4 cup finely diced water chestnuts (fresh preferred) 3 Tablespoons finely chopped scallions (white and green parts) 1/4 tsp salt Generous 1 tsp sugar 1/4 tsp white pepper 1 Tablespoon cornstarch 1 Tablespoon light (regular) soy sauce 1 Tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry 11/2 teaspoons sesame oil 1 large egg white, beaten 30 small round siu mai skins 11/2 Tablespoons finely diced carrot, or 30 peas, for garnish Light (regular) soy sauce Chinese hot mustard or Colman’s English mustard
1. To make the filling, in a bowl, combine the pork, mushrooms, water chestnuts, and scallions. Use a fork or spatula to stir and lightly mash the ingredients together so they begin to blend. 2. Put the salt, sugar, white pepper, cornstarch, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, and egg white into a small bowl and stir to combine well. Pour over the meat mixture, and stir, fold, and mash everything together until they cohere into a compact mass. Cover the filling with plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes, or refrigerate overnight, returning it to room temperature before assembling the dumplings. You should have a generous 2 cups of filling. 3. Before assembling the dumplings, line steamer trays and/or a baking sheet with parchment paper. For the baking sheet, lightly dust the paper with cornstarch to prevent sticking. Set aside. Hold a skin in one hand. Scoop up about 1 tablespoon of filling with a bamboo dumpling spatula, dinner knife, or fork and position it in the center of the skin, pressing down gently. Pick up the skin and gather and pinch it together to form an open bag (see page 74). Crown the dumpling with some finely diced carrot or a pea.
If steaming right away, place each finished dumpling in a steamer tray open side up, spacing them 1/2 inch apart, and 1 inch away from the edge if you are using a metal steamer. Otherwise, place the waiting dumplings on the baking sheet a good 1/2 inch apart.
Keeping the finished dumplings covered with a dry kitchen towel to prevent drying, form and fill wrappers from the remaining dough. Dumplings made several hours in advance of cooking should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated. For longer storage, freeze them on their baking sheet until hard (about 1 hour), transfer them to a plastic container, and keep them frozen for up to 1 month; partially thaw them before steaming.
5. To cook, steam the dumplings over boiling water (steaming guidelines are on page 17) for 6 to 8 minutes, until the dumplings have puffed slightly and their skins have become translucent. Remove each tray and place it atop a serving plate. 6. Serve immediately with the soy sauce and hot mustard. Invite guests to mix up their own dipping sauce.
Fried Wontons Makes 48 wontons, serving 6 to 8 as a snack
1/3 lb medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut into pea-size pieces (41/2 oz net weight) 1/4 lb ground pork, fattier kind preferred, coarsely chopped to loosen 1 scallion (white and green parts), finely chopped 1/2 tsp plus 1/8 teaspoon cornstarch 1/4 tsp sugar Scant 1/2 tsp salt 1 pinch of black or white pepper 48 small square wonton skins (page 64) Canola or peanut oil, for deep-frying 1 cup Sweet and Sour Sauce (page 217)
1. To make the filling, combine the shrimp, pork, scallion, cornstarch, sugar, salt, and pepper in a bowl and use chopsticks or a fork to mix well. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes before using, or refrigerate for up to a day in advance. You should have about 1 cup.
2. Before assembling the wontons, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly dust with cornstarch. Fill each wonton skin with about 1 teaspoon of the filling, creating triangles, flower buds, or nurse’s caps (see pages 66 to 67). As you work, put the finished wontons on the prepared baking sheet. When all are made, loosely cover with a kitchen towel to prevent drying. The wontons also can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for several hours; let them sit at room temperature to remove the chill before frying.
3. Put a wire rack on a baking sheet and place next to the stove. Pour oil to a depth of 11/2 inches into a wok, deep skillet, or 5-quart Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat to about 325°F on a deep-fry thermometer. (If you don’t have a deep-fry thermometer, stick a dry bamboo chopstick into the oil; if it takes about 2 seconds for bubbles to rise and encircle the chopstick, the oil is ready.)
4. Working in batches of 4 to 6, slide the won-tons into the hot oil and fry for about 1 minute on each side, or until golden brown. Use a skimmer to transfer to the rack to drain.
5. Arrange the wontons on a platter and serve hot as finger food along with the sauce for dipping.
David Karp loves Kishu mandarins. These are seedless, small and kind of flat. They are sweet and sour providing a delicious and more complex flavor than Clementine or Satsuma mandarins. Easy to peel, kids love them too. Find them at Garcia Farms on Wednesday and Saturday in Santa Monica.
Chris Tominaga is the Chef de Cuisine at Joe's Restaurant on Abbot Kinney in Venice. He loves sunchokes, also known as Jerusalem artichokes. They taste nothing like artichokes but instead have a bright root or tuber flavor. Chris makes a sunchoke risotto at home.
Sunchoke Risotto from Kris Tominaga, Chef de Cuisine, Joe's Restaurant, Venice CA
1/2 cup arborio or carnaroli rice 1/4 cup white wine 1/2 onion diced small 3 1/2 - 4 cup chicken stock or vegetable stock 1 Tablespoon salt 1/2 tsp ground white pepper 4 1/2 oz butter 3 oz parmesan 1/4 lb sunchokes 1 cup milk
For the sunchoke puree:
Peel the sunchokes and bring to a simmer in the salted milk. Once fork tender, add the sunchokes to a blender and puree adding the cooking milk until smooth
For the risotto:
Bring the stock to a simmer in a pot. Sweat the onions in a separate sauce pan with 1/2 oz butter until translucent, add the rice, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the rice becomes translucent. Add the white wine and allow to reduce to 1/4. Begin to add the stock a little bit at a time while stirring every few minutes. Continue adding the stock over the course of 15-10 minutes until the rice becomes tender but with resistance in the center. Stir in the puree, butter, and parmesan. Season with fresh cracked black pepper to taste.
Rowan Jacobsen is the author of The Living Shore: Rediscovering a Lost World. He traveled with a group of marine scientists to a remote area of British Columbia to study the Olympia oyster. It is the only oyster variety native to the Pacific coast of North America. They have since been depleted by pollution and over-harvesting. There are intact beds in British Columbia.
Music Break: Summertime by Fred Schultheiss/or Klaus Wunderlich
Sandra Wu is a contributor to Zester Daily where she recently wrote about her trip to the restaurant Modern Toilet in Taiwan. Guests sit on toilet seats and dine at a bathtub converted into a table. All the dishes are served in modified mini toilets.
Guest InterviewBreakfast Around the World
5 MIN, 24 SEC
Green Chile Sauce 3 Tablespoons oil 1/4 cup diced salt pork 1/2 cup finely diced onion 4 tsp minced garlic 3 Tablespoons flour 2 cups chopped green chile 3/4 tsp ground cumin 3 cups chicken broth Salt and pepper
Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottom saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the salt pork and cook, stirring occasionally, until it gives up most of its fat and shrivels, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook until they are soft and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the flour, and stir to evenly coat the onion and pork. Stir in the chile and the cumin and then whisk in the broth. Bring to a bare simmer and cook, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes to thicken the sauce and cook out the flour flavor. (Stir the bottom of the pan to prevent the flour from sticking and burning.) Remove from heat. Season with one-half teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper, or to taste. This makes about 4 cups sauce. Keep the sauce warm if using immediately, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days. Warm the sauce before using.
Enchiladas and assembly
3 cups shredded cheese (preferably a mix of cheddar and jack)
3/4 cup finely diced white onion
12 corn tortillas
Green chile sauce
6 eggs, fried over-medium (optional)
1. This works best if you set it up assembly-line fashion. Combine the cheese and onion in a large bowl. Have ready a large skillet to fry the tortillas and the saucepan of hot green chile sauce. Heat the oven to 400 degrees.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in the large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry a tortilla on both sides until it is puffy and slightly softened, about 1 minute total. Dip the fried tortilla in the chile sauce and place it on an ovenproof plate. Sprinkle over about one-third cup of cheese and spoon over a little more chile sauce. Fry a second tortilla, dip it in sauce and place it on top of the first prepared tortilla, top it with a fried egg (if using), then spoon over more chile sauce and cheese to make 1 serving. Repeat with the remaining tortillas to make 6 servings.
3. Place the prepared plates in the oven and bake until the cheese melts, about 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Music Break: Theme From The Threepennyopera by Russ Conway
Marcelle Pick is the author of The Core Balance Diet. Billions of bacteria inhabit our intestines and when they are imbalanced, they can cause illness or discomfort. An overgrowth of yeast is a symptom of an imbalance. Marcelle argues that probiotics can help return the body to a healthy state.