Maydan brings Middle Eastern and North African flavors to LA with a new cookbook and a massive restaurant complex

Kibbeh Nayeh
Ground Raw Lamb with Bulgar

Serves 8 to 12

My mom learned how to make kibbeh nayeh from her own mother, who came from the west Beqaa region in Lebanon. Mom typically uses little to no spice, so that the full flavor of the lamb comes through. If you’re a fan of dishes like carpaccio, sashimi, and tartare, this will blow your mind. To the uninitiated it might seem like this is a pretty straightforward dish to make. But that is definitely not the case. Even in my mom’s own family, among her sisters and cousins, battle lines are drawn in an instant if someone chooses the wrong side in debates about the bulgur-to-meat ratio, amount and proportion of individual spices, or whether rose petals are in or out. One constant, no matter which side you’re on, is that everyone is careful not to let the meat get too warm. Some joke that the Christian Lebanese serve their kibbeh nayeh with the sign of the cross pressed into the surface to give thanks for the food, and also as a little prayer that it doesn’t kill anyone. If you order your lamb from a Lebanese butcher counter, it’s fine to have them grind it. If not, it’s better to get a bone-in leg and grind it yourself; Mom would definitely approve.

Ingredients 

For the kibbeh seasoning (optional):

• 1 tablespoon ground allspice
• 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon ground dried rose petals
• 1 tablespoon dried mint leaves
• 1 tablespoon dried marjoram
• 1 cup (140 g) fine bulgur wheat
• 1 medium onion
• 2 pounds (910 g) boneless leg of lamb, finely ground
• 1¾ tablespoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
• Freshly ground black pepper

For serving:

• Extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Lebanese unfiltered
• Harissa (page 35; optional)
• White onion, sliced
• Fresh herbs, such as mint (optional)
• Pita

Instructions

1. To make the optional kibbeh seasoning, in a small bowl mix together the allspice, cinnamon, cumin, rose petals, mint, and marjoram. Set aside until needed or store in a tightly covered container in a cool, dark place up to 6 months.

2. Place the bulgur wheat in a medium bowl and add cold water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm). Let stand for 30 minutes. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer, and then squeeze it to release as much of the water as possible.

3. Meanwhile, grate the onion on the fine teeth of a box grater. In a large bowl, mix the onion and up to 2 tablespoons kibbeh seasoning, if using, with the ground lamb. Add the drained bulgur, the salt, and pepper to taste. Knead until well combined and softened, dipping your hands in ice water to cool them down if they get too warm; this may take several minutes.

4. Pat the mixture into an oblong or round shape, depending on the shape of your serving plate. Transfer to the plate and decorate the surface with the tines of a fork or the bowl of a spoon if desired. If not eating at once, place in the refrigerator until serving (and once served, put the kibbeh nayeh back in the fridge after it’s been out for an hour or two).

5. Serve with olive oil, harissa, if using, sliced onion, fresh herbs, if using, and pita.