Authorship, memory, aspiration: ‘The Rise’ of Black cooks

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“Black food is not monolithic,” says Chef Marcus Samuelsson. Alberta Wright’s Sunday Roast Chicken with Chickpeas and Couscous was an inspiration for his Harlem restaurant, Red Rooster. His new book, “The Rise,” celebrates excellence in Black food. Photo by Angie Mosier.

Black excellence has long been celebrated in popular culture — sports, music, literature and film. Why the delay in the culinary industry to recognize the contributions of Black cooks and innovators? Marcus Samuelsson shines the spotlight on the achievements and influence of those behind Black food in America. His new book, “The Rise,” describes authorship, memory, and aspiration when discussing the complexity and diversity of Black food and the cooks who make it.

Marcus Samuelsson celebrates the many narratives of the Black food experience in his book “The Rise.” Photo courtesy of Voracious Books.



Evan Kleiman