How the perfect peanut butter cookie pushed Nancy Silverton to become a better baker

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"This cake is a Nancy cake," reads the headnote for the Kentucky Butter Cake in Nancy Silverton's latest cookbook. Photo by Anne Fishbein.

"She made a cookie that I was very angry about because it was better than any peanut butter cookie that I ever made," says chef and restaurateur Nancy Silverton, after biting into baker Roxana Jullapat's peanut butter cookie at Friends & Family. Silverton was challenged to tinker with her own recipe. What came next was her latest cookbook of classic baking recipes: The Cookie That Changed My Life



Silverton ran across a recipe in the New York Times that she had never encountered before, a Kentucky Butter Cake. The cake won the Pillsbury Bake-Off Contest in 1967. "If you have to make one cake out of the book, just make that," says Silverton. "I think what makes it so delicious is that after it's baked, it's brushed with a butter glaze that kind of has the same effect as a glazed donut." 

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"There's nothing that young, tattooed men that love to cook over grills with lots of fire would be interested in," says Nancy Silverton about her latest book. Photo by Anne Fishbein.

"I didn't get creative in the book," says Silverton of her decision to take on the classics. "There's nothing that young, tattooed men that love to cook over grills with lots of fire would be interested in." 

In an effort to make a cornbread that actually tasted like corn, Silverton experimented with adding creamed corn before landing on making a corn pudding that she folds into the batter.In a gentle rant about muffins, Silverton says she finds supersize muffins offputting: "A muffin is not a cupcake. I feel like a muffin is a breakfast item and should be more wholesome."

Nancy Silverton is the chef and restaurateur behind Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza, Chi Spacca, and Nancy's Fancy.


One bite of a perfect peanut butter cookie inspired Nancy Silverton to perfect the classic recipes in "The Cookie That Changed My Life." Photo courtesy of Knopf.