At a time when restaurant criticism was fixated on fine dining, Jonathan Gold championed taco trucks, Ethiopian food, and San Gabriel Valley noodle shops. His insistence on taking these cuisines seriously transformed lives, saved restaurants, and brought a renewed sense of pride to those communities. Writer Gustavo Arellano talks about what Jonathan meant to local restaurateurs.
A memorial to Jonathan Gold at Lonzo's Bakery in Culver City. Photo by Nick Liao.