Photo: DYLAN + JENI
FROM THIS EPISODE
Besha Rodell is the restaurant critic for the LA Weekly. She has long been fascinated with Cracker Barrel, a Southern country-themed chain restaurant that’s part-dining room/part-gift shop. The brand's questionable history and booming success were the subject of a presentation she gave last weekend at the Southern Foodways Symposium.
Music: "Texas Flood" by Stevie Ray Vaughn
Jonathan Gold is the Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer for the Los Angeles Times. This week he reviews Le Comptoir, an intimate ten-seat restaurant located in Koreatown that features a highly seasonal produce-inspired tasting menu that changes daily.
The Historic Hotel Normandie
3606 West 6th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90005
Music: "Eyes to the Horizon" by Kristin Diable
Grace Lee is an award-winning filmmaker. Her new documentary, Off the Menu: Asian America, is a road trip into the kitchens, factories, temples and farms of Asian Pacific America that explores food as a reflection of these evolving communities.
Off the Menu: Asian America will premiere at the Japanese American National Museum this Sunday, October 25, with a panel discussion to follow. Tickets and more info can be found here. The wider release comes to PBS this December.
Music: "The Beast"
After a federal court lifted a two-year-old ban that had previously prevented biotech companies from planting genetically modified corn in Mexico, a coalition of chefs who call themselves Colectivo Mexicano de Cocina have organized to preserve the country's sixty native varieties of corn. Chef Carlos Salgado of Taco María in Costa Mesa discusses his involvement with protecting this Mexican culinary tradition.
You can taste several varieties of heirloom corn at Taco María, where Salgado nixtamalizes it for tortillas, tostadas and tamales.
Music: "Coyoacan Theme 1" by Calexico
Enrique Olvera is today's most celebrated Mexican chef. His marquee restaurant, Pujol, in Mexico City, ranks number 16 on San Pellegrino's list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants. Just last year, he opened Cosme in New York to critical acclaim. His debut cookbook, Mexico From the Inside Out, features his contemporary reinterpretations of traditional Mexican cuisine.
We've got a recipe for his Eggs with Hoja Santa and Ranchero Salsa on the Good Food blog.
Music: "The Fall" by Rhye
Laura Avery is the market manager at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market. This week she speaks with Alex Ageneau, the executive chef at Aestus, who is shopping for Brown Sugar persimmons for his Grilled Persimmon Salad recipe, which you can find on the Good Food blog.
Laura also talks with Laurence Hauben of Penryn Orchard Specialties about their nine different persimmon varietals. They also delve into hoshigaki, the traditional Japanese method of drying persimmons to achieve maximum flavor and sweetness.
Music: "Marilyn Monroe" by Pharrell Williams
More From Good Food
The Great Tortilla Tournament, nixtamalization, and Guerrilla Tacos Let’s talk tortillas! Gustavo Arellano announces KCRW’s first-ever Great Tortilla Tournament, to choose the best tortilla in LA out of a bracket of 64. Bill Esparza talks tortilla makers in the L.A. area. And did you know that inside your tortilla is an ancient process, perfected over centuries? Also, L.A. Taco’s Daniel Hernandez recalls a Guadalajara taco crawl with Jonathan Gold.
Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Why Gustavo is doing a Great Tortilla Tournament for KCRW It’s the perennial question: Corn or flour? We’re putting 64 Southern California tortillas head-to-head in our #MasaMadness bracket to see who will win the Golden Tortilla trophy. Gustavo Arellano fills us in on all the details. Read More
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More