Tracing the history of the birria obsession

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According to Bill Esparza, Angelenos first discovered birria de res during trips to Tijuana. Photo courtesy of Bill Esparza.

A red, beef stew tucked into a corn tortilla stained red from the juices — birria de res has become a bonafide phenomenon. Bill Esparza documented its journey from Tijuana to Los Angeles and beyond in a deep dive for Eater.



Evan Kleiman