A red, beef stew tucked into a corn tortilla stained red from the juices — birria de res has become a bonafide phenomenon. Bill Esparza documented its journey from Tijuana to Los Angeles and beyond in a deep dive for Eater.
Tracing the history of the birria obsession
According to Bill Esparza, Angelenos first discovered birria de res during trips to Tijuana. Photo courtesy of Bill Esparza.