How dairy restaurants proliferated — then disappeared

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Jewish dietary law requires the separation of meat and dairy, and so came the birth of delis and dairy restaurants. Cartoonist Ben Katchor illustrates the complicated story of religion influencing how we eat. Dairy eating started in Eastern Europe, then traveled to New York, where it symbolized Eastern European culture there. 

The cover of “The Dairy Restaurant.” Photo courtesy of Nextbook Press



Evan Kleiman