We're starting to see raspberries at our farmers' markets in Southern California. Chef Alex Ageneau serves red raspberries as an accent to cold pea soup or alongside pistachio financiers for dessert at Petrossian in West Hollywood. He prefers to buy them early in the season when they are still firm and have a pleasing tangy bite. Farmer Lori Heal ticks off the red, yellow and black varieties she grows at 2 Peas in a Pod in Arroyo Grande. Their raspberries are handpicked by half a dozen workers who have been at the farm for ages.