M. Georgina review: 4 dishes to try at Melissa Perello’s debut LA restaurant

LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison hits up chef Melissa Perello’s new spot at The Row in downtown Los Angeles. Named after her maternal grandmother, Perello’s M. Georgina brings Italian flair to a micro-seasonal menu.

Addison’s recommendations

Coal-roasted potato: "It's a perfect expression of what a baked potato can be. It takes that kind of American thing that so many of us grew up eating or celebrating with when we were eating steaks in chop houses -- and turns it into something poetic and Californian."

Liberty Farms duck for two: “The duck for two, subtly smoky and rich in textural contrasts, is particularly excellent winter sustenance,” he writes in the LA Times.

Erbette chard saag: The dish includes house-made feta, romanesco cauliflower and winter brassicas with “spice-riddled nectar at the base.”

Sourdough ice cream: “The tasting menu is an easy sit-back-and-let-someone-else-make-the-decisions introduction to the restaurant. The baked potato at the bar — with a scoop of Ziskin’s sourdough ice cream with salty croutons for dessert — will do the trick too,” Addison writes in his LA Times review.