Popeye’s new chicken sandwich has set off a nationwide craze, a sign of America’s long obsession with juicy, brined chicken encased in a highly seasoned, craggy crust. On the other end of the spectrum is karaage, or Japanese fried chicken, with its subtle marinade and light, delicate breading. Earlier this year, Smorgasburg GM Zach Brooks and Evan Kleiman checked out Pikunico by chef Kuniko Yagi, who’s attempting to bring it to a wider audience at The Row DTLA .
Roast chicken and ginger rice bowl at Pikunico. Photo by Nick Liao/KCRW