Bill Addison dines at Tesse

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Duck terrine, blue crab simplissime, vanilla souffle. These are some of the French delicacies that LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison recommends you try at Tesse in West Hollywood. And don’t forget the cocktails. Addison says the drinks may come with eye-rolling names like Melon DeGeneres and Weird Bonal Yankovitch but the “bartenders nail the symmetries in their earthy, herb-forward concoctions.” Make mine a double.

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Evan Kleiman