Romulus and Remus, the twin brothers who in mythology were abandoned by their parents and nursed by a female wolf, giving birth to the Roman Empire, are etched into a glass door along Wilcox just north of Sunset Boulevard. The portal is an invitation to chef Evan Funke's latest concept, Mother Wolf.
The restaurant is a magnet for celebrities. Michelle Obama and Beyoncé were nestled in a private dining room when Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Bill Addison visited. He says the restaurant manages to walk the tightrope of a place to be seen while still serving ambitious Roman cuisine.