Power and pizza: Bill Addison reviews Mother Wolf in Hollywood

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Does it crunch like a Dorito? True to the Roman style, chef Evan Funke says the crust of pizza should be crisp and crackling. Photo by Eric Wolfinger.

Romulus and Remus, the twin brothers who in mythology were abandoned by their parents and nursed by a female wolf, giving birth to the Roman Empire, are etched into a glass door along Wilcox just north of Sunset Boulevard. The portal is an invitation to chef Evan Funke's latest concept, Mother Wolf

The restaurant is a magnet for celebrities. Michelle Obama and Beyoncé were nestled in a private dining room when Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Bill Addison visited. He says the restaurant manages to walk the tightrope of a place to be seen while still serving ambitious Roman cuisine.

Evan Funke brings the influence of trade, sharp flavors, and countryside agriculture that defines Roman cuisine to the table at Mother Wolf in Hollywood. Photo by Eric Wolfinger.

Sommeliers circle the dining room and an amaro cart is wheeled out with the dessert course. Photo by Eric Wolfinger.

Mother Wolf resides in the 8600 square foot Hollywood Citizens News building on Wilcox in Hollywood. Photo by Eric Wolfinger.