Hitting the Barbacoa Trail with Bill Esparza

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Barbacoa is both a technique and tradition. Typically enjoyed on the weekends in Mexico, many immigrants have brought it to California with them. Los Angeles now has more barbacoa vendors than Mexico City. In his piece for Eater LA, writer Bill Esparza put thousands of miles on his car as he hit the Barbacoa Trail in the state, starting with those cooking up lamb and goat in Los Angeles.

Paco Pérez designed a barbacoa oven inside Aqui es Texcoco that simulates earthen pits, allowing him to cook and serve meat outside of the weekend. Photo by Wonho Frank Lee.



Evan Kleiman