Remembering restaurant critic Gael Greene

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In an obituary for the Los Angeles Times, Bill Addison described Gael Greene as one of the masterminds of modern restaurant criticism. Photo by Lev Radin/Shutterstock

In her decades reviewing restaurants for New York Magazine, Gael Greene reinvented the genre with her unapologetically sensual take on food and willingness to make herself a character in her stories. In his obituary of the late critic, Bill Addison writes that she was “a live-out-loud force whose path, even as she blazed it, vanished behind her.” 

Greene passed away this week at the age of 88. Good Food revisits her conversation with Evan Kleiman from 2006 after the publication of her memoir “Insatiable: Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess.”