Likening Normandy and Brittany to Seattle, Renee Erickson specializes in simple seafood

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Most American and Italian anchovies are cooked and packed in oil. Boquerones, Spanish white anchovies, are usually vinegar-pickled before an olive oil bath and have a mild, tangy flavor. Photo by Jim Henkens.

Renee Erickson spent summers with her family on the Tulalip Indian reservation north of Seattle, where her brother and dad would sneak out in the early hours of the morning to fish. She would eventually find her way onto the boat and went on to open her first restaurant by the age of 25. Best known for her approach to seafood, she is roasting bone marrow, pickling chanterelles, and whipping up a staple of duck-fried potatoes in her cookbook “A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus.”

Renee Erickson became competitive with her older brother who would steal away with their father on early morning fishing expeditions. Her love of seafood is evident in her cookbook, “A Boat, A Whale & A Walrus.” Photo courtesy of Sasquatch Books.

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Evan Kleiman