Photo courtesy: Salt & Straw
FROM THIS EPISODE
If you’re on the hunt for cuisine Provençal and a menu that epitomizes the essence of summer, motor over to Spring in downtown LA. That’s the word on the street from our favorite food writer Jonathan Gold. He recommends the escargot (more salad than snail), les legumes de saison (seasonal vegetables) and the strawberries with tarragon granita. Thanks for making us hungry, chef Tony Esnault! Your creations are true objet d’art on the plate.
Music: "The Angels Are Calling" by Nikki Sudden
In Azerbaijan, “a house without a guest is like a mill without water,” or so the saying goes. You don’t hear about Azerbaijani cuisine every day but Feride Buyuran hopes to change that with her new cookbook, Pomegranates and Saffron: A Culinary Journey to Azerbaijan. She discusses food served in her home country and shares a recipe for fresh herb kuku. Find the recipe on the Good Food blog.
Music: "Denia" by Manu Chao
Feride Buyuran, Food blogger and author
Much of the food and drink we love is fermented, from beer and wine to bread and chocolate. But what makes a fish sauce ice cream a good idea? The Willy Wonka of Salt & Straw, Tyler Malek, explains how he injects the funkiness of fermentation into his frozen confections. You can taste Malek’s ice cream — he switches up the menu monthly — at Salt & Straw’s LA locations (Venice, Larchmont Village, Studio City) and in Portland, Oregon. To hear about more fermented foods we love, listen to our interview with Simran Sethi that aired earlier this year.
Music: "Autumn Sweater" by Yo La Tengo
Tyler Malek, Salt & Straw
It doesn’t get much more summer than corn-on-the-cob. But don’t be alarmed if you find a worm crawling in an ear, says the chef at Miro, Gavin Mills. Finding little critters in your corn is proof it was grown without pesticides: “I usually try and release the worm back into the wild. I'll put him in one of my plant pots that’s out front of the restaurant because he deserves to live too. From there we just eat away. It’s so delicious.” On the Finley Farm in Santa Ynez, pesticides aren’t used on the fields. When the tassels turn brown, the corn is ripe, ready to be picked and brought to market. Try Miro’s recipe for corn and tomatillo salad with crispy pig ears — fancy! — on the Good Food blog.
Music: "For True" by Trombone Shorty
Gavin Mills, Miro
“Each time a Southern cook hefts a skillet to the stovetop, he or she is not alone,” writes John T. Edge in A Gracious Plenty. “Trapped within the iron confines of these skillets and stewpots are the scents and secrets of a family’s culinary history.” So where did our love affair with the cast iron skillet begin? Chuck Reece, the founder and editor-in-chief of The Bitter Southerner went to South Pittsburg, Tennessee, to the Lodge Manufacturing Company, to find out.
Music: "Fire & Brimstone" by Trombone Shorty
Chuck Reece, The Bitter Southerner
Next, onto a subject that the entire Good Food team spends a lot of time talking about: the price of our meat. In America, we eat more beef, poultry and pork than almost anywhere else in the world and we expect all of it to be super-cheap. Our colleagues at Harvest Public Media just finished a deep dive, "Dangerous Jobs, Cheap Meat," into the human toll of this habit. HPM Investigations Editor Peggy Lowe joins us to talk about it.
Music: "Afterlife (Flume Remix)" by Arcade Fire and Flume
Peggy Lowe, Harvest Public Media
We close out this week’s show with a steaming bowl of fish pho and Gustavo Arellano, editor of the OC Weekly and host of KCRW’s Orange County Line. "If someone says they’re going to Taco Bell for an enchirito, I’d throw shade," says Gustavo. But order the fish pho at Pho Vinh Ky, instead of good old beef or chicken pho, and it’s like “electricity in a ramekin.” Yowza. Order up.
More From Good Food
The Silk Road show We devote the bulk of this week’s show to food eaten on the ancient Silk Road. Caroline Eden starts us off in Samarkand, then Naomi Duguid and Yasmin Khan take us to Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Kurdistan and Iran. Back on our side of the pond, Harvest Public Media’s Kristofor Husted reports on the herbicide dicamba, Jonathan Gold eats at Delicious Food Corner and we shop for fresh kale at the market.
Food and race, the Bäco book and a farewell to summer herbs Jonathan Gold heads to Culver City to review the futuristic restaurant Vespertine. Josef Centeno talks about the hustle leading up to his first cookbook, “Bäco.” Chef and activist Tunde Wey gives us his take on whiteness in the restaurant industry. Plus: Laura Avery gets the secret ingredients behind Royce Burke’s Secret Lasagna at the farmers market.
Making music with vegetables, and mastering Indian cooking technique Listen to the sweet sounds of the Long Island Vegetable Orchestra. Then find out how to cook Indian food with time-trusted techniques. Visit Vermont to hear about efforts to tackle pollution caused by ag runoff. Plus: Great broths and stocks, scarlet runner beans at the market and Jonathan Gold reviews Felix.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
How to make ‘Caesar’ Brussels sprouts like Josef Centeno This recipe comes from the just-published first cookbook Centeno wrote with Betty Hallock, “Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles.” Read More
How a Tarentaise cheese swept the show Americans love cheese. We eat roughly 37 pounds of it every year. At this year’s American Cheese Society conference in Denver, judges assessed a record 2,024 products to determine which one rose to the top. Our contributor Simran Sethi shares her report on the big cheese. Read More