Stiff martinis, red uniformed waiters, and Welsh rarebit. Sit in a mahogany booth at Musso & Frank Grill on Hollywood Boulevard, and you’ll be teleported to a bygone era of Tinseltown. It’s where Good Food’s Evan Kleiman was first introduced to steamed clams and sand dabs as a child. Later this month Musso and Frank’s celebrates its centennial. Writer Lesley Balla wrote an oral history for the Hollywood Reporter about the restaurant’s glory days.