Photo: Legumes de saison (Camellia Tse)
FROM THIS EPISODE
Laura Avery sneaks a peak into chef DJ Olsen's shopping basket this week at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market. He's inspired by chef Tony Esnault's legumes de saison at Spring in Downtown LA. Esnault's signature dish is a medley of seasonal vegetables that calls for cooking each one separately "to bring it to its fullest expression." Japanese turnips are just one of the winter vegetables Olsen will use to create his vibrant vegetable palette. ‘Tis the season for Gus Jimenez's golf ball-sized turnips at his farm in Los Olivos, California. Each of the white-fleshed turnips comes topped with a shock of edible greens, so be on the lookout for these flavorful root vegetables at your local farmers markets.
Music: "Passion Fruit" by Belle and Sebastian
Dorie Greenspan's prodigious new cookbook is Dorie's Cookies. This isn't a regular cookie book. It's a tome: an encyclopedia of one baker's obsession with the cookie, featuring over 300 different recipes to suit every craving or occasion imaginable. "Once you start thinking of a cookie as having infinite possibilities, it just comes to you." Find everything for the cookie-obsessed in Greenspan's book and try these recipes for her savory rosemary-Parmesan shortbread cookies and holiday spice leckerli on the Good Food blog.
Music: "Jelly Roll"
There are plenty of traditions surrounding the holiday season, but perhaps one of the most obscure is the Christmas pickle. Jane Lear, the executive editor of CURED, traces back the possible provenance of the holiday dill and its curious placement among the rest of our fancy Christmas tree trimmings. Learn more about the mystery of the yuletide pickle's origin in Lear's article for the inaugural issue of CURED.
Music: "The Christmas Song" by James Brown
The Danish have a word, "hygge," which chef and food writer Trine Hahnemann describes as "trying to find all the little moments during the day where you can relax and feel good about yourself and the people around you. And it often involves something to drink and something to eat." Sounds good to us. In her new cookbook, Scandinavian Comfort Food: Embracing the Art of Hygge, Hahnemann offers up recipes that are sure to warm the soul: winter porridges, freshly baked treats, hearty stews and other seasonal eats.
Music: "Iron and Wine"
Before gefilte fish was sold on supermarket shelves, jarred in its own jellied aspic, it was a labor-intensive dish prepared at home in the name of Ashkenazi tradition. Jeffrey Yoskowitz and Liz Alpern of The Gefilteria in Brooklyn are reclaiming Old World customs with a collection of re-imagined recipes in their recently published cookbook, The Gefilte Manifesto. Find their recipe for herbed gefilte fish terrine on the Good Food blog.
Music: "Love Jihad"
Each December, we head north to Noe Valley in San Francisco, where we find the ever-helpful Celia Sack behind the counter of one of our favorite independent bookstores, Omnivore Books. Sack joins us again to talk trends and share this year's picks for every foodie, eater, baker or cook on your holiday gift list. You can find her culinary book recommendations on the Good Food blog.
From Chengdu-style noodles at Mian in San Gabriel to chef Tony Esnault's legumes de saison at Spring and LASA's Pinoy-Californian version of pancit at the Far East Plaza in Chinatown, LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold has been busy eating his way across town. He joins us in studio this week to present his top 10 dishes for 2016. Find out which ones made the cut and read Jonathan's review for the LA Times. It's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it.
Legumes de saison
Photo by Camellia Tse
Music: "I Love You" by Black Flag
More From Good Food
Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
BONUS: Classic Jonathan Gold on KCRW In this bonus episode, we're resharing some of the late Jonathan Gold's classic segments on KCRW from over the past 20 years. These conversations had a tremendous impact on LA’s dining scene, helping Angelenos to get out of their silos to explore new neighborhoods and cuisines.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More
Getting Fresh with Salt & Straw’s Tyler Malek Market Report producer Joseph Stone caught up with Salt & Straw’s Tyler Malek at the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market to talk about the wonderful world of ice cream. Read More
¡Pasar el café! Nostalgia sparks new twists on pan dulce classics in L.A. With apologies to the New York Times, bakeries aren’t exactly a new thing in LA. Pan dulce has been quietly flourishing here for decades. Conchas, quesadillas, and orejas may be unfamiliar to many, but they’re treasured in LA’s Latino communities. Audrey Ngo reports. Read More