Fuzzy like a peach, quince rolls into the farmer’s market

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Quince most resembles an apple in flavor, but because of its high concentration of pectin, it should be cooked to soften. Photo by Gillian Ferguson.

Shopping for fall produce, market correspondent Gillian Ferguson chats with Brittany Cassidy about quince, which she is using at Violet in Westwood. A starchier fruit, Cassidy is poaching quince in red wine for her Basque cheesecake. She is buying her quince from Terry Ranch in Dinuba. Becky Terry describes the quince with fuzz like a peach and skin like a pear, but is treated like an apple. With its high amount of pectin, it’s necessary to cook the quince. Throughout history, it’s been primarily used for baking, but can be marinated in citrus like a ceviche or added to savory stews. California is the biggest grower of quince in the United States, and yet only 380 acres are grown in the state.

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Evan Kleiman