Barbari and gisou: Bill Addison discovers an Iranian bakery

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Cookbook author Andrea Nguyen tipped off Bill Addison to the bread at Kouzeh Bakery. Photo by Bill Addison.

Southern California is home to the largest population of Iranians outside of Iran, which to the delight of Angeleno palates means plenty of great Persian food. LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison discovers Kouzeh Bakery, started as a cottage business by Sahar Shomali. Working at Spago and Lucques, Shomali started a personal project of baking barbari, the oblong, chewy flatbread she grew up eating in Tehran. 

She is also making sesame seed-studded enriched breads including gisou and komaaj-e-hamedaan. Pre-orders are taken online, and Shomali can also be found at the Melrose Place Farmers Market on Sunday mornings and at the Beverly Hills Market & Deli on Fridays.



Evan Kleiman